If you’ve never cooked the most delicious of shellfish on an open fire, you are in for a wild marsh treat.
My wife, Pam, and I traveled to Daufuskie Island the next to the last weekend of duck season in South Carolina. This was Pam’s first trip here and I was very excited to share the Daufuskie experience with her. We found ourselves on the Island Head Ferry on the Friday morning before the Roger Pinckney XI Annual Memorial Operation Harass Wood Ducks. Our plan was to arrive at Freeport Marina on Daufuskie Island, rent a golf cart and explore the island. We would meet Captain Eddie and his lady friend Denise at the Old Daufuskie Crab Company for cocktails when they arrived later in the afternoon.
Pam and I explored the island and I was able to share some of my favorite places with her. We bought souvenirs at the Bloody Point Lighthouse and enjoyed a tasting at the Daufuskie Distillery. We picked up some new vodka, bourbon, and tequila to enjoy when we returned to North Carolina. After checking into our rental place, we received a call from Captain Eddie that he and Denise were arriving shortly.
Pam and I drove our golf cart to the Old Daufuskie Crab Company, marveling at the ancient Spanish moss draped oak trees along the way. Captain Eddie and Denise were right on time. We enjoyed a couple of drinks and ordered some of the finest fresh seafood we’ve ever enjoyed. That’s when Erica, a year-round resident of Daufuskie Island, walked in and immediately began catching up with Captain Eddie. In short order she invited Captain Eddie and Denise to a Low Country, Daufuskie Island Oyster roast for her birthday the next day. By virtue of being friends with Captain Eddie, Erica extended an invitation to Pam and me. The party would begin around 1:00 p.m. and last until whenever. It was decided we would go to the party after our duck hunt.
The Second Roger Pinckney XI Annual Memorial Operation Harass Wood Ducks hunt was a tremendous success, with birds being harvested including wigeon and wood ducks. Following the hunt, the hunters and spouses enjoyed celebratory cocktails at the Old Daufuskie Crab Company, also known affectionately as the beer joint. I introduced Pam to a libation and local favorite called Scrap Iron. Pam said the Scrap Iron reminded her of a Long Island Iced Tea but had a little more heft to it. (Scrap Iron was named after the homemade liquor Low Country bootleggers used to haul. They would hide the illicit booze under piles of old metal. When they were stopped by Revenuers, G-Men, and T-Men and asked what they were hauling, the response was “nothing but this old scrap iron!”) After a few Scrap Irons and Red Stripes, it was time to head to Erica’s party, armed with fresh Scrap Irons for the oyster roast.
An oyster roast is a traditional party, particularly in the southern coastal regions of North and South Carolina, held in the fall and winter to celebrate birthdays, engagements, baby showers, football games, or just an excuse for friends to gather and enjoy each other’s company. Lots of oysters are washed down with a nice chilled white wine, ice cold beer, or bourbon on the rocks.
The party was in full force when we arrived, with Waylon, Willie and the boys wafting through outdoor speakers. Erica’s beloved Marsh Tacky horses were grazing in the pasture just a few yards away. We recognized several old friends from previous trips and made some new ones as the party progressed. The oysters were cleaned to perfection. Erica’s partner, Tony, made a rotating basket large enough to fill with a bushel or more of oysters which he then power washed. Once the oysters were cleaned, he put them in a steamer pot that was on a gas burner. When the oysters were done, they were dumped on a large, raised table designed for shucking oysters. Tony told me he has cooked oysters wrapped in wet burlap on sheet metal over a wood fire, and also grilled them on a charcoal grill, but his favored way is to simply steam them like he was cooking them today.
We shucked oysters and ate them on saltine crackers with melted butter, hot sauce, and cocktail sauce. As they are noted for, the oysters had a nice briny, firm, meaty texture, and finished with a buttery, savory flavor. The party was an extension of the hospitality and sense of community of Daufuskie Island. A wonderful time was had by all.
We are already looking forward to our next trip to Daufuskie Island to see our New Old Friends and to make some new ones. Daufuskie is a special place and we can’t wait to see what adventures it holds for our next trip in the hopefully not too far future!